Poland: Warsaw

So today I was up earlier than normal to meet my guide for my tour of Warsaw. She is nice, but not as good a guide as my guide in Krakow. We walked and walked and walked LITERALLY all over Warsaw. We started with the area near my hotel, and saw the tomb of the unknown soldier and the changing of the guard there. It is similar to other tombs with the eternal flame and all that, but one thing that I thought was interesting was that they had several urns around the flame that contained soil from every battlefield where Polish soldier died during the wars.

It was explained to me why Warsaw was so devastated during the war and why 95% of it was destroyed. Apparently in 1944 there was an uprising here against the Germans, and as reprisal for that uprising, the city was razed. Bombed to hell and back. So during most of the tour, the lines were the same. Here is ________. It was completely destroyed in 1944. It was renovated in _____. Again and again. It actually was a little depressing after a certain point. And of course, there were pictures showing the devastation. I can't even imagine what it must have been like to live through that time. We lost two buildings in NYC in 2001 and almost lost our shit, so I can only imagine what these people must have felt like having their entire country invaded and whole cities destroyed. But the resilience they showed and determination to rebuild and carry on is admirable.

We saw the church where Chopin's heart is kept (a bit macabre, right?). Actually, all along the main thoroughfare there are benches in important locations in Chopin's life, which play portions of some of his most famous works. A neat way to commemorate him, I thought.

We saw rebuilt palaces, rebuilt town squares, rebuilt churches, rebuilt houses and shops, rebuilt house where Marie Curie was born which is now a museum, and rebuilt old city walls and barbican. And might I just say, they've done a fabulous job with their reconstruction.

We then had a break for lunch, and I ate more perogies. Dear god, they are little ravioli type things that are filled with deliciousness. I now have tried almost every filling and have two favorites: Russian style (kind of like ricotta cheese and potato and something else - maybe onion?) and meat and cabbage. So good!

After the lunch break, I met my guide at the appointed place and time, and we set off via car (thank goodness!!!) to the monument to the Warsaw Uprising, and then back in the car to another monument to Jewish oppression during the war. It is right outside what will be the Jewish History of Poland museum (once it's finished). We then walked (again!!!) about two miles along a route to the Jewish Quarter, where the Jews were forced to live during the war. Along the way there we several markers, memorials, and plaques which recalled tragic events which occurred there. It was extremely depressing. I mean no disrespect or anything, but really there are only so many horrible stories you can hear about people being shot in the back of the head, suffocated to death, committing suicide to avoid having to do something unspeakable, hung, sent to a gas chamber, etc, etc before you start getting depressed and want to hear a story about rainbows and unicorns. No such story came as relief.

We came to a synagogue here in Warsaw that survived the war. It was the only synagogue that survived, and the reason why is because the Germans used it as a stable for their horses. The facade has been well maintained (it's the yellow and tan-ish building). We went to a very old Jewish cemetery and checked out lots of old tombstones, and heard stories of the heroic things that people did, and their tragic ends. But the cemetery itself was very peaceful, shady with lots of trees, and quiet...

We then got back in the car (finally!!!) and drove all around the rest of town, getting shown where every country that has diplomatic relations with Poland's embassy is (as well as other various sites). I then was dropped off at the hotel after a very long day and lots of walking. I walked a little further to a nearby square and had a glass of sangria and enjoyed the view for a bit. I then headed back to the hotel and relaxed for about an hour before it got dark and decided it was time for dinner. I had dinner, came back to the hotel, and then prepared for my departure tomorrow!

I have a five hour train ride tomorrow and I am so very excited about it, after just having a three hour train ride yesterday. But this is the homestretch of this trip. I make my way to Gdansk tomorrow, tour Gdansk the day after, then fly home the day after that! Here's to two more great days of exploring Poland!!!