We started off by a drive to the Ali Qoli Aqa bathhouse museum. We toured the 17th century bathhouse, which had some wonderfully preserved tile work inside. Also inside was a man spinning pottery! He had made some lovely jugs, jars, and other various things. We then walked to the nearby 17th century bazaar where we saw people going about their daily routines of shopping and working, including carpenters, silversmiths, butchers, etc.
We then walked back to the van and were driven to another part of town to the Hasht Behesht Palace, or Eight Paradise Palace. This site, as so many others on this trip, was under construction, which forced us to cross wooden beams, jump over trenches, and avoid jackhammered holes. Thankfully our guide asked the man with the jackhammer to stop while we were there so we could actually hear his explanation. The palace was completed in 1652 and is called the Eight Paradise Palace because on each side of the building are two balconies which have lovely views (when not under construction) of the gardens in which the palace is set.
After visiting the palace, we were given the option of visiting the modern art museum, but since none of us were particular keen on that idea, we went back to the main square to explore all of the areas and shops we had missed. This included a copper market where men were making everything imaginable from copper. It also included a master miniaturist's shop where we were given a demonstration of this amazing art. I fell in love with two pieces in particular and when negotiating a price asked for an "Obama discount" in celebration of Obama's re-election. The owner/master artist laughed, then instantly knocked 20% off the price. The people of Iran (like 90% of Europe and most of the rest of the world) were very much in favor of Obama because they think he is a man of peace and hopes he will help improve US-Iranian relations.
We then made our way to lunch and on the way I saw some adorable mouse pads that were in the style of Persian carpets, when I asked how much they were, I was given one price. When I said, "How about an Obama discount?" he laughed and cut the price in half.
We then ate lunch, and continued our stroll around the bazaar. I had been looking all around different shops for an inlaid box and finally found one of good quality for a good price. Again, I asked for the "Obama discount" and the man dropped the price 100,000 rials ($3.33 which was about 15% of the price).
I also wanted to talk real quick about shops here. A lot of them close for lunch, and what is amazing about this is that when the shops do close, they simply throw a sheet over their wares that are outside, close the door to their shop, and walk away. Theft is so low here, they feel comfortable doing that (I posted a picture of one shop that was closed below).
As we continued walking, I saw some camel-bone boxes that I thought would be perfect for tooth fairy boxes for my niece and nephew, so I bought two, one in one store and one at another. At each shop I asked for the "Obama discount" and the price came down 10% at each store.
After everyone had decided we were done shopping, we thought we would just stop in a carpet store quickly because it had been mentioned in the Lonely Planet guide as being one of the better shops in town. The prices were so good (after the Obama discount) that I bought another silk nomadic carpet. Since the credit card machine was at a different carpet store, we were then escorted to the other store so I could pay. Of course, we got shown some more carpets in this other store, and another member of the group bought a carpet and asked for the "Obama discount." The owner of the shop said, "Don't worry, madam. As I told your guide in Farsi when you first arrived, if Romney had won, I would have charged you 30% more!" We all laughed and then said our goodbyes.
We then rushed back to the hotel to throw down our new purchases and while the other members of the group were across the street purchasing CDs of Persian music, I filled out a survey to help a local student for her Master's thesis in tourism development. After we were all done with our various tasks, we went for another amazing dinner. I had my new favorite (Chicken Fesenjan - which is chicken breast in a stew of pomegranate and walnut paste), and afterwards we walked back to our hotel. Tomorrow morning we will be packing up and then catching an early after ion flight to Tehran. Tomorrow will be my last day in Iran this trip. I normally don't spend this much time (three weeks) in one country, but I have enjoyed every single day here and will truly be sad to leave. The people are friendlier than I ever would have imagined and really love the USA. I can't count the number of times I've been told welcome to Iran or to town. There are a lot of negative stereotypes about Iran and the people here, which simply aren't true. It just goes to show that you shouldn't believe everything you hear.
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